Supermarkets

The big chains are Naivas, Quickmart, Carrefour and Chandarana FoodPlus, with branches in every mall and most neighbourhoods. All take M-Pesa and cards. Local brands are much cheaper than imports, and bakery, butchery and fresh produce counters are good.

Markets and the mama mboga

For fruit and vegetables, the mama mboga down the road is often fresher and cheaper than the supermarket, and will set things aside for you once you are a regular. Bigger markets:

  • City Market in the CBD - produce, flowers, meat and crafts.
  • Wakulima (Marikiti) Market - the wholesale produce market near the railway, for buying in bulk early in the morning.
  • Gikomba and Toi - huge markets best known for mitumba (second-hand clothes), shoes and household goods. See both on the map.

Malls

Nairobi has many malls. On the map are Two Rivers, Village Market, Westgate, Sarit Centre, Garden City and The Hub Karen. Others include Yaya Centre, Junction and Prestige Plaza on Ngong Road. Malls have supermarkets, banks, pharmacies, cinemas and food courts, and you will pass a bag check at the entrance.

Crafts and the Maasai Market

The Maasai Market is a travelling crafts market: beadwork, kikoys, kiondo baskets, carvings and soapstone. It moves between locations on different days of the week, often in or near malls, so ask where it is this week. Bargain, and start well below the first price.

Clothes

  • Mitumba - good-quality second-hand clothes are a Nairobi habit, not just a budget choice. Go early for the best pick.
  • Tailors and fundis - fabric shops sell kitenge and kikoy fabrics, and a tailor will make clothes to measure cheaply. See fundi.
  • Malls for new clothes, at prices at or above European levels.

Online and delivery

  • Jumia and Kilimall for general goods.
  • Glovo, Bolt Food and supermarket apps for groceries and takeaway.
  • Delivery riders are paid by M-Pesa or card on the app. Tip in cash or by M-Pesa if you want to.

Bargaining

Expect to bargain in markets and with street traders, and with a fundi. Do not bargain in supermarkets, malls or anywhere with printed prices. Bargaining is friendly and expected; smile, name a lower price, and settle in the middle.

Eating out

Try nyama choma with kachumbari and ugali on a weekend afternoon, chapati and beans or githeri at a kibanda, pilau and biryani from the coast, and the Indian food of Parklands and Ngara. Westlands and Kilimani have the densest spread of cafés and restaurants.

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